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Playboy Bunny - Full Costume 



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Playboy Bunny - Full Costume 



Written By: Antibromide 



TOOLS: 



Basic sewing tools (needle, thread, 
scissors, pins) (1) 

Measuring tape/ruler (1) 

Sewing machine (1) 

paper, pencil, other drawing materials 

ID 



I PARTS: 

satin fabric (1) 

Interfacing (1) 

• White yarn (1) 



SUMMARY 

Knowing the basics of sewing is all you need before starting this tutorial for making your own 
Playboy Bunny Costume. I take you through making a pattern based on your personal body 
measurements and explain the construction steps to make a costume just for you! 



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Step 1 — Playboy Bunny - Full Costume 




• To begin designing my costume, I searched the internet for lots of photos of Playboy 
Bunnies. I compiled a moodboard of images. 

• Once I felt like I understood the silhouette, I created a technical sketch of what I wanted 
the final garment to look like. 

• The bunny costume consists of the Bunny suit (a strapless playsuit cut like a maillot swim 
suit), bunny ears, a collar with a bow tie, cuffs with cufflinks, to-the-waist stockings, and 
closed toe high heels. 



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Step 2 




• You will need a basic set of patterning tools including: a pencil & eraser, gridded rulers, a 
flexible ruler and/or hip & arm curve, pins, 12" cork squares. 

• Body Measurements: bust, waist, hip, abdomen, side seam length, bust arc, waist to 
underbust, waist to hip, crotch depth, center front at waist to center back at waist between 
your legs, across chest, across back, mid shoulder to apex, neck, and wrist. 

• Fabric and Notions: heavy weight satin, heavy weight interfacing, light weight satin/lining, 
plastic boning such as rigilene, a 22"-24" metal-teeth zipper, black satin or black ribbon, 
cufflinks or undecorated cufflinks with separate decoration items, jewelry wire, blank 
headband, skein of white yarn, skirt hooks, hook & eye closures. 



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■ Full Costume 




Step 3 



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Playboy Bunny - Full Costume 




• Patterning the Bunny Suit: After 
you have taken your body 
measurements, lay out large-scale 
paper (a good cheap solution is 
butcher paper or those rolls of 
banner paper they sell with kids 
crafts). Let's start the pattern! 

• Draw a long line on the left to 
create your Center Back (CB) Line. 
About 6" from the top of your 
paper, square a line across to 
create your Bust line. 

• Measure down from your bust line 
the amount of your Side Seam 
measurement. Square across to 
create your Waist line. Measure 
down from your waist line the 
amount that is your Waist-to-Hip 
measurement. Square across to 
create your Hip line. Draw a line 
parallel to the CB line that is 1/2 
your hip measurement. That line is 
the Center Front (CF) of your 
garment. 

• Draw a vertical line between the 
waist and hip lines that is exactly 
halfway between CF and CB. 

• Along the bust line, measure from 
CB the amount of 1/2 Across Back 
measurement plus 1/8". Square up 
a couple inches. 

• Along the bust line, measure from 
CF the amount of 1/2 Across Front 
measurement plus 1" to 2" 
depending on your size. If you are 



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Playboy Bunny - Full Costume 



small (like a size 4), add 1" to the 
measurement. If you are larger 
(like a size 20), add 2". I am 
around a size 10 and added 1 1/2" 
to my measurement. Square up a 
few inches. 

• Find the halfway point between the 
front and back armscye lines and 
square down to the waist line. 



Step 4 




• Create some waist shaping by drawing the back side seam line 3/8" to the back at the 
waist line. 

• Draw a curved line between the waist and hip to create hip shaping. Tip: try to emulate 
your body shape with this line to reduce alterations after your test fit later. 

• Find the halfway mark between the CB and the Back Armscye on the bust line. Square 
down to the waist line. 

• Create a 1"-wide waist dart on that line (1/2" on either side of the line for a total width of 
1"). 

• Extend the center line of the dart 5" below the waist line to create the hip dart. 

• Connect the legs of the waist dart with the termination point of the hip dart (the end of the 
line you extended). 



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Step 5 




• Find the halfway point between the CF and Front Armscye on the bust line. Square down to 
create the center line of the underbust dart. 

• Make a mark 1" below the bust line. This is the Apex point and termination point of the 
underbust dart. 

• Create a dart that is 1 3/8" wide at the waist line (1 1/16" on either side of the center line). 

• Extend the center line of the dart 4" below the waist. 

• Connect the dart legs of the underbust dart to the termination point of the hip dart. 

• Draw a circle with the Apex at the center point. The radius of the circle is your Bust Arc 
measurement. 

• Draw the front side seam line toward the front by 3/4" at the waist. 

• Draw a slightly curved line between the waist side seam and hip line to create the hip 
seam for the front of the suit. 



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Playboy Bunny - Full Costume 



Step 6 






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• Let's do some adjustments for a contour fit! 

• Underbust Dart: Widen the dart along the bust arc 3/8" on each dart leg. Connect the 
widened dart legs to the original points along the waist line. 

• Dart so CF sits against chest: Draw a horizontal line between the apex and CF line. This 
line should be at a 90 degree angle from CF. Create a 1 1/2" wide dart around that line 
(3/4" on either side of the line). 

• Bust Dart: Because we are working without a proper block, we are making a line to an 
imaginary shoulder line. I drew my line at approximately 115-120 degrees from horizontal. 
The length of this line should be the length of your Apex to Mid Shoulder measurement. 
Draw a perpendicular line to emulate the shoulder seam. Along your hypothetical shoulder 
line, mark the legs of your bust dart. Remember back in Image 1 when you took half the 
Across Front measurement plus an amount between 1" - 2"? The amount you chose to add 
is 1/2 your bust dart width. If you chose to add 1" your dart width at the shoulder is 2". I 
chose to add 1 1/2" therefore my dart is 3" wide at the shoulder seam. Connect your dart 
legs to the apex point. To contour the top so the bunny suit sits against your chest, widen 
the dart by 1" along the bust arc (add 1/2" to either dart leg). 



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Playboy Bunny ■ 


■ Full Costume 




Step 7 



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• On the CB line, measure down 
from the hip line the amount of your 
Crotch Depth. Square across. 

• Your body measurement from CF 
waist to CB waist between legs 
minus 2 x Crotch Depth is the 
fabric length that sits between your 
legs. Determine the measurement 
and split it between the front and 
back. Make the back a bit longer 
than the front - Example: If the 
amount is 5", add 3" to the back 
and 2" to the front. Measure down 
from the crotch depth line along CF 
and CB respectively and square 
out a few inches. 

• The width of what is between your 
legs depends on your body. If you 
are a smaller size, you'll want 
around a 2"-wide piece of fabric 
between your legs. Larger sizes 
will want 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" wide fabric 
between your legs. This is a bit of 
trial and error to find the right fit but 
those are great places to start. 
Draw a line parallel to CF/CB below 
the crotch depth line. The line 
should be 1/2 the amount you think 
you need between your legs away 
from CF/CB. 



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Step 8 



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• Create the leg curve by determining on your body how high you want the leg cut at your 
side seam. Measure from your waist along the side seam of the pattern and mark the 
point. 

• Draw a long smooth gradual curve to your crotch line. I use my hip curve to create this line 
but a flexible ruler works also. 

• Again using your hip curve or flexible ruler, draw an approximate line for the top edge. 

• Extend the center of the front and back dart to the leg line. This is your princess seam line! 



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Step 9 













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• Place a fresh piece of paper on top of the pattern you have already developed. 

• Trace around the CF pattern piece copying the CF line, the leg line (and between the leg), 
the princess line, the CF most half of the front dart. At the Apex point, transfer the bottom 
edge of the CF dart only. 

• You are now going to close the dart at the CF and transfer that dart to the bust dart. Place 
a pin in the apex and pivot your original pattern until the CF dart is closed. Trace the 
remaining part of the CF piece. 



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Step 10 




• Trace each section onto a new 
piece of paper. Leave a bit of paper 
around each piece to allow for 
changes and seam allowance to be 
added. 

• The side back and side front pieces 
need a grainline. Make a line 
parallel to CF or CB to be the 
grainline. This line should run 
almost the length of the pattern 
piece as the longer a grainline is, 
the more likely the piece is to be 
cut on grain (if care is taken to lay 
the piece on grain). 



Step 11 





• Smooth the lines around the apex. 
Obviously, the points created by 
pivoting the pattern around the 
apex are not flattering nor easy to 
sew. I used the sharp curve of my 
Hip Curve ruler to recreate those 
lines. Try to limit the amount of 
fullness you add but do create nice 
curves. The dashed lines are my 
original marks. The continuous 
lines are what I added. 



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Step 12 





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• Match all of the seams as they will be sewn along the top edge and secure in place (I 
pinned through all the layers of paper). 

• Where the layers of paper overlap, trace the lines from pieces underneath so you can see 
the line you are working with. 

• Now that all the pieces are matched up as they will be when sewn, you can see how 
bumpy and irregular that line is. We don't want that! Use your hip curve or flexible ruler to 
redraw that top edge into a smooth, appealing line. The dashed line is original line. The 
continuous line is what will be my final line. 



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Step 13 




• Add your desired seam allowance around each pattern piece. Be sure that the pieces you 
sew together have the same seam allowance - example: front side seam and back side 
seam need to have the same seam allowance. The entire top edge should have the same 
seam allowance, as should the entire leg opening. 

• Cut out your pattern pieces. 



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Step 14 




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Playboy Bunny - Full Costume 

• Alterations: Once your pattern pieces are prepared, cut out a sample fit from a cheap 
fabric (not your fashion fabric). Sew the princess seams, side seam, and seam between 
your legs. Keep the back open where the zipper will be so you can get into the garment. 
Try it on and have someone pin you into the bunny suit. Using a marking device (chalk, 
pencil, pen, etc.), make any adjustments. I re-drew the leg line and at this point I figured 
out a big mistake that I made on my original pattern. 

• How to transfer test fit alterations to your paper pattern: 

• Place a couple of cork squares on your work surface. Lay the pattern piece that needs 
to be changed on top of the cork, then align the fabric on top of the pattern piece using a 
couple of pins to secure fabric. Place pins through the fabric of your test fit, through the 
paper pattern, and into the cork square along the adjustment line you drew on your test 
fit. This will leave a row of dots in your paper pattern so you know where that line should 
fall. 

• Remove the pins and test fit. Trace the line of dots with your pencil to indicate your new 
stitching line. 

• Place the next pattern piece that needs alterations on the cork, align the fabric, create a 
row of pin holes for your new sewing line, trace the line. 

• Transfer the marks to all pattern pieces that require alterations. Use a hip curve or 
flexible ruler to create a smooth finished line. 

• IMPORTANT: Transfer the alteration marks from both sides of your test fit, i.e., transfer 
the alteration marks from your Center Front Right and Center Front Left pieces of your test 
fit to the Center Front Pattern piece. This will create two lines of pin-holes. Split the 
difference between these lines when you determine what the final new sewing line will be. I 
made my alteration marks on my original bunny suit block and then transferred the new 
lines to the individual pattern pieces. Once you are happy with the fit, the pattern is ready 
to cut from fashion fabric. 



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Playboy Bunny - Full Costume 



Step 15 









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• Patterning the Cuffs: The cuffs are the easiest part to pattern. I patterned a half cuff with 
the paper folded so the cuff is the same on either side. You'll need your wrist 
measurement. 

• Draw two lines parallel to each other the width you wish the cuffs to be. I suggest that 
this be 2-3". 

• From the fold line of the paper, measure the distance of 1/2 your wrist measurement 
and draw a line to denote that distance. 

• Using a cufflink, determine how large the button hole should be. Create a curved line 
that is appealing to you for the outside "flap" of the French Cuff. 

• Add desired seam allowance. 

• With the paper folded, cut out your pattern piece. 



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Step 16 




• Patterning the Collar: I patterned the collar in the same manner as the cuffs — on the fold 
— therefore I used 1/2 the neck measurement. You'll need your Neck Measurement + 1/2" 
for ease. 

• Create two parallel lines 1" apart and perpendicular to the fold. Measure from the fold 
1/2 of the neck measurement + 1/2 total ease (1/2 neck measurement + 1/4") and draw 
a vertical line. Add a 1/2" extension past the CF line. 

• Place a separate piece of paper over the collar and trace the CB line, the top edge 
to1/4" less than CF, and draw a collar wing that is appealing to you. The collar wing 
should be wider than the collar stand to conceal the stand. 



Step 17 




• Divide the collar into 5 equal pieces. Cut out. Cut along the lines but attempt to not 
completely separate the pieces. Place your collar wing piece on top of another piece of 
paper. Spread the paper along the cut lines to create a bit of a curved line along the top 
edge. For this collar you don't need much of a curve. 

• Trace the shape you create onto the paper below. Draw clear, smooth lines based on the 
traced marks. 



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Step 18 






# Add seam allowance to your wing and stand pieces. Remember, the top edge of the wing 
will be sewn to the top edge of the collar stand so they need the same seam allowance. 
Cut out. 



Step 19 




• Patterning the Bunny Ears: I looked intensely at the photos of Bunnies and I looked at 
myself and I figured out that Bunny Ears are the same height as your face! The top of your 
head to your chin is how tall the ears should be. 

• Start with a horizontal line on your paper. Draw a line perpendicular to the first line and 
centered (make a T). Mark the height of your bunny ear. 

• Create a dart that is 3/4" wide and 1/2 the height of your ear. Draw an appealing line for 
the outer edges of the ear. Add your seam allowance. 

• Fold the paper on the center line of the ear and cut away the paper from the sides of the 
ears. Fold the ear dart closed and re-draw the bottom line so it is straight. 

• Add your seam allowance (the width of the headband) and cut the paper with the dart 
folded closed. 



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Step 20 




• Sewing the Bunny Suit: Cut 2 of each piece from heavy weight satin, heavy weight 
interfacing, and light satin/lining. 

• The interfacing piece is to be placed against the wrong side of the heavy-weight / shell 
satin. Throughout the entire sewing process, I will treat the shell and interfacing as 1 
piece. 

• Sew the CF pieces and Side Front pieces together along the princess seam. Press. 

• Trim/Notch the curve for the bust so it lays smooth on the outside of the pattern. 

• Sew the CB piece to the Side Back piece along the princess seam. Press. 

Step 21 




• Add the zipper to the center back using a lapped zipper technique. Try this one if you don't 
have a good sewing book. 

• Sew the CF seams together. Press. Sew the side seams together. Press. Sew the top 
edge of the lining to the top edge of the shell. Turn and press. 



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Step 22 






• Using your original sewing pattern to determine the length, cut boning pieces for CF (top 
edge to hip line), Front Princess Seam (leg opening up to the bust arc — do not have the 
boning come up over the bust), the Side Seam (Leg opening to top edge of suit), and Back 
Princess Seam (leg opening to top edge of suit). 

• Position the boning between the shell and lining, centered over the seam line. Pin to hold in 
place. 

• Using a back-stick hand-sewing stitch, stitch-in-the-ditch through all layers of shell, 
boning, and lining. 



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Step 23 




• Hand-sew the lining and the shell of the leg opening to each other after sewing the boning 
in place. 

• Hand-stitch the lining closed along the zipper tape at CB. Don't let the stitches show on the 
front. Add a hook & loop closure to the top of the zipper. 

• I added snaps to the crotch (I thought it would allow me to use a public restroom without 
help since I planned on going out to party in this outfit). I did not feel like I could trust the 
snaps to not release while I was dancing and ended up safety pinning the thing closed 
down there. I included photos of my snaps for an inspiration point if you want to add them 
to your Bunny Suit! 



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Step 24 






• Constructing the Bunny Cuffs: Cut 4 Bunny Cuff pieces from white satin. Cut 2 Bunny Cuff 
pieces from heavy weight interfacing. 

• Construction (do this for each cuff): 

• Place two pieces of white satin right sides together and align 1 layer of interfacing to 
one side. Pin to hold in place. 

• Sew almost all the way around. Leave a 2"-3" opening on one flat edge for turning. 

• Turn right side out. Press. 

• Hand-stitch the opening closed. 

• Mark for making button holes. 

• Sew button holes and cut open. 



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Step 25 




• Making Cufflinks that match your Bunny Suit: 

• I started with a basic cufflink finding. I had red rhinestones that matched the color of my 
Bunny Suit so I decided to make those the decorations on the cufflinks. A dab of E-6000 
glue got the job done! 



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Playboy Bunny - Full Costume 



Step 26 






• Constructing the Bunny Collar: Cut 2 collar wing pieces from white satin. Cut 2 collar stand 
pieces pieces from white satin. Cut 1 collar wing from heavy weight interfacing. Cut 1 
collar stand from heavy weight interfacing. 

• Construction Order: 

• Place the two wing pieces right sides together and align the interfacing piece to one 
side. Pin to hold in place. Sew the outside (curved) edge of the wing pieces. Trim the 
curve, turn right side out, press. 

• Collar Stand: Press the seam allowance to the wrong side of the long edge of one collar 
stand piece. Sew the raw edge of the collar wing to the long edge of the collar stand 
piece you did not press. The wing should be centered on the collar stand piece. Align 
the raw (un-pressed) edge of the collar stand to the raw edge of the other collar stand 
(with the wing attached). Sew the short end, the long raw edges, and the other short end 
together. Clip your corners, turn, press. 



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Step 27 




• Tuck that pressed edge to the inside and hand-sew it in place. Attach a skirt hook to the 
collar stand. Create a bow-tie with black satin fabric or with ribbon and attach it to the 
collar stand. 



Step 28 




• Constructing the bunny ears: You will need a blank headband jewelry wire, heavy weight 
interfacing, and heavy weight satin (the ears have to match the suit!). Cut 4 ear pieces out 
of heavy weight satin and cut 2 ear pieces out of heavy weight interfacing (trim the dart 
from the interfacing to reduce bulk). 

• Construction Order: 

# Press the seam allowance to one side on the interfacing piece. Cut a piece of wire to 
run along the folded edge of the interfacing. Hand-sew the seam allowance of the 
interfacing down with the wire trapped in the fold. 



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Step 29 




• Construct the darts in the satin fabric. Sew 2 layers of bunny ears together along the sides 
(fabric right sides together). Turn right side out and press. 

• Insert the wire-edged interfacing into the satin ears. 
Step 30 




• Hand-sew the satin around the headband. Find the halfway point of the headband and mark 
the spot (I used a pin). Attach the ear by sewing it to the inside of the headband. The pin 
marking the halfway point should act as a point of reference in making the ears even and 
properly set on top of your head. Each of the ears should be the same distance from the 
headband's center mark. 



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Step 31 




• Making the tail requires a skein of white yarn, a yarn needle, and a scrap of cardboard. 

• Determine the size you want your Bunny Tail to be. Create 2 circles from cardboard that 
are slightly larger than the tail you desire. Cut holes in the center approximately 1 1/2" in 
diameter. 



Step 32 




• Cut long pieces of yarn from your skein. Place your two cardboard circles together. Wrap 
the yarn around and around and around and around and around.... through the center hole 
of the circles. I used the entire skein of yarn for my tail. I left about 1 yard of yarn for the 
next step of the tail. 

• Cut the yarn along the outside edge of the circle. You should slip the blade of your 
scissors between the two layers of cardboard. 



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Step 33 




• Use that yard of yarn you left over to wrap between the cardboard circles and tie tight 
knots to secure you pom-pon tail! 

• Pull one side of the cardboard off the pom-pon tail. I secured the center again with another 
round of yarn and knots just to be sure it was secure. Remove the other cardboard disk. 

• Cut a circle of satin that is smaller than the total tail size. Using a curved needle, sew 
through the yarn and satin to secure the tail to the satin circle. Attach the eye parts of skirt 
hooks to the back of the Bunny Suit where you want the tail to fall on your body. Attach the 
matching hook parts of the skirt hooks to the satin circle attached to your tail. 



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Playboy Bunny ■ 


■ Full Costume 




Step 34 




• To complete the look, I acquired a 
pair of sheer-to-the-waist off-black 
tights and to-the-waist black 
fishnets. I happen to own red high- 
heel shoes already but I would 
have made or purchased shoes to 
match. Some bridal stores will dye 
shoes to match dresses and that 
could be an option to complete your 
look if you wanted the perfect 
finishing touch. 

• I plan on adding a couple of 
finishing touches to the outfit; one 
being the name-tag medallion, the 
other being ribbon lacing to each 
hip. The look works without those 
touches but wouldn't it be great if 
the costume had those, too? 

• If you make a Bunny Suit for 
yourself, I hope you have as much 
fun wearing yours as I had wearing 
mine! 

• P.S. If you go dancing in your 
Bunny Suit, test your tail before 
you go. I kept dancing my tail off - 
literally! 



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